I gave myself two days to recover from Speedgoat and move out of my place in Ogden before meeting an old friend Chris Dickson at Big Sandy trailhead, excited for a week of climbing in the cirque of the towers and deep lake area. With a 50+ lb. pack, the approx. 8mi hike in was a little rough on the legs but we made good time and found a nice camp spot in the cirque.
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cirque of the towers from the summit of mitchell |
The next day, we decided to get on the classic E ridge of
Wolfs Head (III 5.6 10p). We soloed up
the low 5th class gully and up-and-over Tiger tower to reach the
base of the ridge. We simul-ed the
majority of the route, doing 3 true pitches for the short stretches of 5.6
terrain. This route was more of a ridge
traverse than a straight-up climb, but it was spectacular nonetheless.
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chris on the "catwalk" |
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exposed traversing on wolfs head |
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one of my favorite shots of the trip |
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through the tunnel |
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summit of wolfs head |
The following day, we got on the other ultra-classic route
in the cirque, the NE face of Pingora (IV 5.8+ 12p). We linked it down to 8 pitches, leading in
blocks, with Chris taking a nice 5.9 finger crack variation on the crux pitch.
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pitch 1 on pingora
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following pitch 1 above lonesome lake (photo: chris) |
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chris about to start up the crux pitch |
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pitch 7 - endless quality granite |
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pingora summit
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Once back at camp, we enjoyed the 2 beers I had hiked in and a cold swim in a gorgeous alpine lake.
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cheers! (photo: chris) |
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swimming below warbonnet peak (photo: chris) |
With beautiful bluebird weather each day, we decided to get
on the N face center of Mitchell Peak the following day, on the other side of
the cirque.
We experienced some
route-finding difficulties (our pitches 2-4 were climber’s L of the actual
pitches 2 & 3) but some great route-finding by Chris put us at the base of
the stellar flake pitches (4-6) and we stayed on-route til the top.
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chris route-finding on mitchell |
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awesome pitch 5 flake system |
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pitch 9 |
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summit of mitchell, stoked to be in the sun after hours of shade on the N face (photo: chris) |
After climbing a few thousand feet of granite in the past 3
days, we felt a rest day was in order, so after sleeping in, we broke camp and
hiked over the pass to set-up a new camp at the far end of clear lake, below
the broad W face of haystack mountain. Stayed tuned for part II with climbing on haystack mt. and steeple peak.
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hiking over to haystack mt (photo: chris) |
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