A week after climbing full exum, I found myself back in
garnet canyon, headed solo up the south fork to the south side of the middle
teton.
standard middle teton view from the garnet trail |
As I hiked past several people
and small groups also headed for the middle, I hoped no one would blindly
follow me, assuming I was headed for the standard SW couloir route. Instead I deviated to the bottom of
continuous snow below the ellingwood couloir, where I put on microspikes and slowly
kicked switchbacks up the semi-steep snow to reach the base of the chouinard
ridge.
from L to S - chouinard ridge, chouinard couloir, SE buttress, ellingwood couloir |
I spent a solid 15 minutes on a
large ledge below the route to dry out shoes/socks and refuel. Above me lay over 1500 vertical feet of
scrambling, reportedly up to 5.4 in difficulty.
I was stoked. I slowly worked my
way up the broad ridge, enjoying the solid rock and choose-your-own-adventure
wide array of route options/difficulty.
bottom of chouinard ridge |
the SE buttress (III 5.7) looks worthy of a return trip |
midway up the route |
Route finding was fairly straight forward but there were a few steep
sections where I had to downclimb and look around to find a more reasonable
route. I was surprised to find myself
feeling a little relieved as the difficulty eased off and the route more-or-less
deposited me in the upper SW couloir about a hundred feet below the summit. I arrived on the summit about 5 hours into
the day and enjoyed another long break of food, views and the company of those
that had come up the SW couloir.
upper portion of route |
the crux of the way i went |
the GFT |
iceflow lake to the west |
I then
descended the SW couloir and rock hopped and boot skied the snow patches of the
south fork down to the meadows. Despite
hiking the entirely of the egress to the trailhead, I still had to pass and
dodge countless hikers along the way. A
stark contrast to the solitude of the chouinard ridge but a small price to pay
for playing in such an incredible mountain range.
Stats: roughly 13mi/6k vert/scrambling up to 5.4 in a
leisurely 8.5 hours roundtrip
Rose: routefinding on the fly on very good rock
Thorn: crowds on the lower trail on the way down
Bud: the adjacent SE buttress with a partner and a rope
Thoughts: while I would definitely recommend this route to
others, its worth noting that there is mandatory exposed 5.4/5 climbing
(particularly on upper half) and is more routefinding intensive and committing
than the CMC route on moran. Also –
descending the south fork of garnet is MUCH nicer the more snow there is
No comments:
Post a Comment