Bugaboos Part I

They say a picture is worth a thousand words.  But what about a thousand pictures?  Well not even that can do justice to the beauty of the Bugaboo Provincial Park.  Wildly aesthetic granite spires, adorned with splitter crack systems, rise up from the glaciated terrain in a way that captures the hearts and dreams of all climbers that gaze upon them.

snowpatch spire from the top of bugaboo spire

After my bugaboo plans last august fell through, I was super excited to visit this summer.  The morning after my summer internship ended, Chad and I hit the road, knocking out the 10 hour drive and 2 hour hike-in to camp at Applebee.

classic TH picture of chicken wire to protect against rubber eating porcupines

With rain in the forecast for the next day, we opted for a short route close to camp – Ears Between (II 5.7 6p) on Crescent Tower.  By simuling the first 3 pitches followed by 2 pitches of 5.7, we made good time and were back in camp before noon.  With the weather still looking good, we grabbed a snack and a larger rack before heading up to the classic McTech Arete (II 5.10- 6p).  The climbing was spectacular and we topped out minutes before the rain arrived, which came and went as we rappelled down.

looking down towards camp from the base of Ears Between

Chad on McTech pitch 4

splitter 

With better weather forecasted for the following day, we were up early and headed for the ultra classic NE ridge of bugaboo spire (IV 5.7 10p).  We passed 3 parties on the approach and luckily were the first party on-route.  By the time we were climbing pitch 2, there was a party on pitch 1 and 5 additional parties cueing up at the base!  We led in blocks, with Chad taking the first 3 pitches to gain the ridge proper before I took the sharp end, leading the pitch 4 corner and an excellent hand crack variation on pitch 5 before we entered the prominent chimney and simuled the remaining 5 pitches to the top in 2 large blocks.  

approaching the NE ridge

crowds at the base, luckily we got up early and hiked fast

all smiles atop pitch 4 (photo: chad hiatt)

pitch 5 handcrack variation

nate and kevin on the traverse

me atop the N summit of bugaboo spire (photo: nate duray)

view of the howsers and upper vowell glacier

The traverse of the multi-tiered summit made for exposed but easy simuling before making the long, slow descent down the kain route (we did 4 rappels and downclimbed raps 5 and 6).  Once at the BS col, we shared ropes with another party to make 2 60m raps since we had opted not to carry axes on route.  We were back in camp slightly over 11 hours since departing, stoked on a great day on such an incredible route.

descending the kain route

climbing the BS col (fortunately there was enough snow so it was in great shape for the duration of our trip)

the nasty W side of the pigeon-howser col

pigeon feathers from east creek

We awoke to rain on day 3 and spent a few rainy hours sleeping/reading in our tents before the weather cleared.  We then packed up for a hike over to the east creek bivy sites, to put us in position to attempt the world famous beckey chouinard route (V 5.10 15p) during the upcoming weather window and to get away from the noise and crowds of the packed Applebee campground.  Climbing the BS col with heavy packs was a bit rough but we topped out about an hour after leaving camp and departed across the vowell glacier.  Descending the pigeon-howser col was straightforward and we were pleasantly surprised to find we had the gorgeous east creek bivy area all to ourselves for a few hours before 2 other parties arrived that evening. 

S howser tower and the minaret as seen from our east creek bivy

Stay tuned for part II for our adventure on the beckey chouinard route as well as pigeon spire on the return to Applebee.