Sheafman & Castle Crag Loop

I’ve wanted to do a loop up sheafman canyon of E sheafman peak, W sheafman peak and castle crag for a number of years.  I finally got around to it last weekend and it did not disappoint. 

castle crag from W sheafman

I was surprised to find the road already gated down at the winter trailhead but a fairly painless 35minutes of road running and switchback cutting put me at the summer TH.  I ran the bulk of the 4 miles to the second creek crossing, before backtracking a few hundred feet and leaving the trail, ascending E sheafman peak via the prominent S facing slide path slightly W of the summit. 

ascent route up E sheafman.  next time, descent with skis..

I boulder hopped along the ridge proper all the way to W sheafman, taking the time to investigate skiable passages N down into fred burr creek (2 moderate passages and a few skinny steep couloirs).  Another long stretch of boulder hopping down the W ridge and a short climb put me at aichele lake for a water refill as I admired the striking E face of castle crag.  I’ve heard the obvious dihedral goes at 11-. 

couloir N to fred burr 

S face pt. 8469 up fred burr creek - i'll visit you someday with skis

E face castle crag

I ascended castle crag via the standard SE ridge route (class 2+) before taking a direct line up the final 100ft summit fin at exposed 4th class with a few low 5^th moves.  I lingered on the summit for a few minutes, eating and soaking in the incredible view.  I had heard castle crag to have one of the best summit views in the entire bitterroot and now having seen it, I certainly agree. 

final 100ft of castle crag's SE ridge - bypass on L and wrap around to summit at class 2+
or climb R side of this fin directly to summit at exposed class 4/low 5th

looking down the N couloir

I took a small detour on the way down to check out the N couloir slightly W of the summit for future reference before descending the SE ridge and dropping down to knack lake for water and to find the summer trail.  An enjoyable 6.5mi run out the well-maintained trail put me at the summer TH and soon thereafter at my truck.

Stats:  approx. 20mi/6400vert/class 2+ (except optional final 100’ castle crag) in 8:10 car-car from winter TH at moderate pace

Approx. splits from summer TH:  2 hrs E sheafman, 3 hrs W sheafman, 4hrs aichele lake, 4:50 castle crag, 5:50 knaack lake, 7:10 summer TH

Rose: vast view from atop castle crag

Thorn: locked gate at winter TH (however the route to/from the summer TH was pretty easy)

Bud: returning for a long ski tour of castle crag, a run down to fred burr and the prominent slide path off E sheafman pt (many variations possible)